Nothing captures the spirit of Onam quite like the sadhya. Served traditionally on a banana leaf, this elaborate Kerala feast brings together a stunning array of curries, accompaniments, crisp savouries, and sweet payasams. It is pure festivity on a leaf – a celebration rooted in community and boundless generosity.Now, the capital is joining the banquet. Whether through buzzing regional eateries, festive pop-ups, or home-style kitchens, Delhi NCR tables are laying out a feast this weekend to welcome everyone to Kerala’s rich culinary heritage.
Delhi NCR tables are laying out a feast this weekend to welcome everyone to Kerala’s rich culinary heritage (Pic: @athyekacafe)
‘Onam sadhya is a way to enter the story of Kerala’For some Delhiites, the appeal of the sadhya goes beyond discovering a new cuisine. “For us, Onam sadhya is a way to enter the story of Kerala,” says Shreya Chaturvedi, founder of A Little Love & Alter Ego Community, which is using its ‘India, Meet India’ series to introduce participants to the state through food, art, music and stories. For Chaturvedi, the idea is to keep curiosity alive and leave participants with a deeper understanding of another part of India. That curiosity is also drawing people to Onam tables this weekend. “Being a North Indian, I’ve never experienced Onam or had a traditional sadhya before, so I’d really like to explore the festival and experience the culture,” says Dikshant, a PGDM student, who plans to enjoy sadhya at a Delhi restaurant this weekend.
‘Onam has always been about coming together over a meal, and the sadhya captures that spirit beautifully’ (Pic: @atmanamofficial)
For Jehan Nozer Taraporewalla, a Delhi-based PhD student, this will be his second Onam in the city. His first experience was at IIT Delhi, where he discovered dishes such as avial and pachadi, which he had never eaten before. This year, he is taking the experience beyond campus and onto a dinner table with friends he met through a foodie group. “I’ll be wearing a lungi, while some of my friends will be wearing kasavu saris. We’re all strangers who bonded over food, and now we’re coming together for an Onam supper,” he says.Jyothidhas and Parvathy, who are hosting a supper table at their home, tell us, “For Malayalees in diaspora, Onam is an opportunity to celebrate a collective identity and to present others a welcome door to Keralam’s culture. Among the festivities, the sadhya takes centre stage for it represents the festival’s roots in agrarian traditions. The sadhya spread is a reflection of the culture of commensality that defines the hopes that drive the society forward, one banana leaf at a time!”Joel Johny, a marketing professional who is attending a sadhya at the Kerala House this Sunday, says, “As a Malayali, for me, Onam is incomplete without sadhya and the game of tug of war. When I was a kid, our neighbours used to invite us over for the feast. It’s a kind of a Thanksgiving for us.”‘A meal that is generous, celebratory and best enjoyed together’“Onam has always been about coming together over a meal, and the sadhya captures that spirit beautifully. The feast being served is rooted in the traditions of Kerala, while presenting the kind of food we love cooking and eating. From the different curries and accompaniments to the payasams at the end, every element has its place on the banana leaf. It’s a meal that is generous, celebratory and best enjoyed together,” says Ruchira Hoon, chef patron, Draavin Canteen.
The 25-item vegetarian spread includes avial, olan, kaalan, thoran, sambar, rasam, kootu curry, Kerala red rice, pachadi, pulissery, upperi, sharkara varatti, inji puli and pickles, followed by festive desserts such as paal payasam, pazham payasam, pazham halwa and ada pradhaman. Pic: @atmanamofficial
Chefs citywide are blending traditional feast recipes with modern dining techniques. “Onam sadhya is much more than a festive meal; it is a celebration of Kerala’s rich culinary heritage, community and togetherness,” says Shantanu Yadav, co-founder, Atmanam, whose sadhya brings together classics such as avial, olan, kalan, thoran, sambar, rasam, matta rice and traditional payasams.Sheetal Saxena, founder, Athyeka Cafe”It is a celebration of abundance, togetherness and the beautiful diversity of Kerala’s culinary culture. The festival brings the experience of sitting down to a traditional Kerala feast to people in Delhi NCR—served on a banana leaf, with all its little flavours, rituals and warmth”
‘A celebration of abundance, togetherness and the beautiful diversity of Kerala’s culinary culture’ (Pics: Athyeka Cafe)
‘Sadhya is all about sentiment and nostalgia’Sadhya is as much about memory as it is about culinary tradition. Sahil Sambhi, founder of Nadoo, says, the space evokes memories of his childhood, while this Onam marks his first South Indian festival celebration in Delhi in 15 years. That sense of home is also reflected in Chef Shri Bala’s preparations, with memories of her kitchen finding their way onto the festive table. “The sadhya spread is all about sentiment and nostalgia,” she says.Chef Vinod Dani from Cafe Lota, which is hosting the fourth edition this year, shares, “The sadhya is a deeply traditional, community-driven meal where every single dish, from the comforting parippu to the tangy pachadi and the rich payasam, has a strict place on the banana leaf to perfectly balance the six fundamental tastes. Our team went to Mararikulam village (in Kerala) to cook alongside local women, learning how to handle freshly harvested vegetables the authentic way, while the rest of the team stayed in Ernakulam to master the art of traditional bulk cooking. The core spices have been sourced from Kochi. The best part of a sadhya is that hands-on experience – of cooking as well as eating.”Planning an Onam table at home?An integral part of Indian celebrations, the table is where everyone gathers, eats, talks, and makes memories. “For an Onam-inspired tablescape, use a peetal lota or golden urli as a centrepiece, filling it with rajnigandha, lotus, or carnations, layered according to height. Green coconuts can also double up as vases for flowers. LED candles can add a hint of gold and warmth to the table while being a safer option. Surround the candle stand with green grapes and banana flower for a traditional touch,” says Divya Gupta, a tablescaping expert. For an Onam detail, add a Pookalam-inspired motif to the napkins – a small nod to the floral designs that are synonymous with the festival.
For an Onam detail, add a Pookalam-inspired motif to the napkins (Pic: AI)
