I consider myself a reasonably adventurous foodie. Someone who orders anything that looks new, sounds interesting, and challenges my cultural palate tolerance. But then I tried the new Durga Pujo menu from one of the world’s most recognisable coffee chains—and I understood why Bengalis are having a collective meltdown.Just when you thought the annual veg vs. non-veg debate that surfaces around Durga Pujo had cooled down, along comes the aloo posto burger. Arguably one of the most talked-about, tasted, loved, and well-traveled dishes from the incredibly rich repertoire of Bengali vegetarian cooking, aloo posto commands a sacred fan following.Which explains why it appeared as the star of the festive menu, alongside a chingri or prawn turnover, a couple of Bengali-style desserts featuring nolen gur, a kosha mangsho wrap, and—hold your breath—a bhetki bhaja sandwich. (A heavy handed take on the classic Filet-O-Fish, where bland basa is replaced with a fillet of the prized bhetki.)This is neither a food review nor a roast. But what needs to be called out is the uninformed handling of ingredients that feels almost like a personal slight to any self-respecting Bengali. The furore over this menu is particularly strident when it comes to the aloo posto. It is a dish that relies on the pungency of mustard oil, green chillies, and the delicate crunch of poppy seeds clinging to perfectly cubed potatoes. It is eaten ONLY with rice. Simple but complex. You cannot simply mash it, shape it into a patty, deep-fry it, and slide it between burger buns with lettuce and tomato. No.The outrage over this experiment fits right into the broader trend of gimmickry we’ve been subjected to lately. We’ve been having biryani cocktails, rasgulla manchurian, pav-bhaji fondue and phuchkas stuffed with octopus and cola. But what works for eateries chasing virality shouldn’t be what an international coffee giant serves at a premium price point.It is particularly curious when you recall October 2012, when this chain launched in India at Mumbai’s Horniman Circle with immense fanfare. Back then, the brand collaborated with culinary experts to craft a localised menu that respected Indian sensibilities while maintaining its global identity. A lot has changed since globetrotting Mumbaikers queued for hours to order their Java Chip Frappuccinos and murg tikka panini. For one, Indian consumers are now completely spoilt for choice when it comes to specialty coffee, artisanal bakes, and gourmet sandwiches. Second, the average diner today is far more discerning, culturally protective, and quick to call out lazy pandering.So here’s what you could chew on.There is a very fine line between homage and caricature.If you want to celebrate the Bengali palate during Pujo, or any cultural palate for that matter, by all means innovate. But respect the soul of the dish first. Else, you simply end up serving the culinary equivalent of AI-slop.
