The erstwhile red light district has long since gentrified. What remains is an upwardly mobile locality of 3rd generation youth striving to promote their century-old Ganeshotsav traditions.A well-kept secret of Mumbai’s Ganeshotsav is the treasure trove of grand Ganpati idols located in Kamathipura in South Mumbai. The former red-light district has 45 Ganesh mandals, some 80-100 years old, sprinkled across 16 cross lanes. Each idol is just two minutes away. Most commercial sex workers (CSWs) are long gone. However, the past reputation of the locality precedes it. Funds are scarce. Footfall is lower than Lalbaug-Parel and Khetwadi despite the fact that there are more moortis in the Kamathipura cluster. CSWs cannot go out and seek donations because people ridicule them. Yet, stoically, the third generation of the locality continues its Ganeshotsav tradition.These young men in their 30s are well-educated, well-spoken, practising chartered accountants, doctors and engineers. They are trying hard to extricate Kamathipura from its image by inviting Mumbaikars to see their Ganeshotsav celebrations. Women make reels at midnight and post them on Instagram to impress how beautiful and safe Ganeshotsav in Kamathipura is.Anil Lakkabathini, who heads the Mumbai Cha Ganadhyaksh of 10th Lane, explains that Kamathipura was named after the kamathis (labourers) from Telangana and Andhra Pradesh who migrated after 1795 and constructed Mumbai’s fabled structures like CSMT, BMC, Bombay High Court and Rajabai Tower.“In the late 19th and early 20th centuries it became known as the city’s red-light district although traders lived here too. Today a new generation of educated residents is employed in business, banking, finance and govt sectors.”The 81-year-old Ganadhyaksh is a magnificent 22-ft Vishnu Avatar idol. All members are well qualified — Lakkabathini himself is a chartered accountant.In fact, a few Ganesh mandals have removed Kamathipura from their names. Filmmaker Dhaval Pitale of the 77-year-old Mumbaicha Ganadhisha, 11th Lane, says CSWs are now limited to just three lanes 11-13.“Our mandal is in the heart of the red-light area in Lane 11. We are at pains to explain that all of Kamathipura is not a den. In fact, CSWs and transgender persons actively help our Aadishakti mandal.”The 22-ft ‘baal swaroop’ Ganadhisha stands upon a lotus held in an elephant’s trunk. The 15-ft-tall Kamathipura Cha Krupalu of Lane 7 has been drawing crowds.Secretary Aatish Patil says, “Many people are reluctant to visit Kamathipura because of the old misconception. But it is a very safe area. One can roam freely at night also. The commercial sex workers are unobtrusive—they even confine themselves indoors if police ask them to.”Social media has high praise for Bappa Barfani of Lane 8, whose 33-ft Natraj-style Ganesh has five snakes wrapped around its body.Media in-charge Shriram Nair says the third generation helms the 72-year-old mandal.“They are IAS officers, bankers and graphic artists. I am a doctor. Our mandal is trying hard to extricate CSWs from the world’s oldest profession. Twelve have succeeded within the past year. All women perform seva and contribute to Ganeshotsav by bringing modaks and naivedya plates. We instil awareness about sexual health, try to find them jobs, arrange health camps. But Kamathipura is an area no corporate would like to enter.”Vice-president Aniket Hiramani says, “Kamathipura gets its name from the labour class. Our redevelopment plan may launch around Diwali.”Some are afraid this will be their last Ganeshotsav.
