Ten days after Hindustan Machine Tools’ Independence Day special sale ended, the queue outside the HMT souvenir store in Jalahalli was still refusing to dissipate. People were turning up to ask the same question: When will the next batch of Gandaberunda watches arrive?On Aug 15, the 73-year-old Public Sector Undertaking (PSU) was overwhelmed by a remarkable revival of interest in its watch products — HMT sold nearly 2,000 watches at the Jalahalli store in just seven hours, clocking sales of around Rs 45 lakh. Patient crowds formed a queue snaking across the campus, all hoping to get their hands on one of its six new releases.
A piece of time
“On Independence Day, we launched six new watches, including a newer variant of our most popular Gandaberunda and Desh Ki Dhadkan, which comes with the tricolour on the dial,” says N Ramesh Kumar, chairman and managing director, HMT. “We sold close to 2,000 watches that day at our souvenir shop in Jalahalli between 9:30am and 4.30pm.”The latest Gandaberunda comes with upgrades such as a radium finish. But the frenzy surrounding it has little to do with technical specifications alone.More than a watch The Gandaberunda is not a new creation. One of its earliest versions dates back to the 1970s, and HMT has since introduced around 20 variants for men and women, ranging from leather-strap and metal-bracelet versions to quartz models. Its enduring appeal, however, is rooted in something far more personal — identity.“The Gandaberunda, the mythical two-headed bird, is Karnataka’s state emblem and is deeply intertwined with the state’s cultural history. It was also used as the royal insignia of the Wadiyar dynasty of the erstwhile Mysore Kingdom. HMT puts that history directly on the dial.“The watch features Kannada numerals, along with the word ‘Gandaberunda’ written in Kannada. For many buyers, this design elevates an HMT watch from being a mere accessory into something more. It becomes an emotion, and a keepsake of their cherished past. “Gandaberunda is such an iconic and historic symbol for us Kannadigas. All the numbers are in Kannada. It is a matter of pride for us. The value of it cannot just be measured in money. I am so proud to own this,” says a buyer who stood in the queue for hours.It’s this emotional pull that has turned the Gandaberunda into one of HMT’s most coveted watch editions, and locating one can in fact feel like a treasure hunt.For collectors, owning an HMT watch is often preceded by months of searching. Buyers monitor the company’s website, visit stores repeatedly and keep a close eye on dedicated social media groups for announcements about restocks.Meghana, who was among those queuing up at the Jalahalli store on Aug 15, says she spent more than six months before she could actually lay her hands on a piece.“I visited the stores at HMT Bhavan in Ganganagar and on MG Road several times and left my contact number with them. I was also actively looking online,” she says. It worked finally as Meghana got a call from one of the stores about the special Independence Day release. “I went in the morning and by noon, my dream finally came true. I bought Desh Ki Dhadkan and Gandaberunda watches, one piece each for both my husband and me,” she says.Demand for the Gandaberunda edition is only one part of HMT’s unexpected resurgence story.Operation Sindoor, the Janata (first launched in 1962) and the Stellar are among the brand’s other sought-after models.HMT has traditional watch models that the company brings out periodically. “The Janata is still one of our most sought-after models, especially among collectors. Our institutional sales have also gone up significantly recently, thanks to our new buyer base of youngsters,” says chairman & MD Kumar.He says that HMT sold around three lakh watches over the five financial years from FY2021-22 to FY2025-26, with average year-on-year growth of 100%. The figures recently grew to 150%, including sales of 18,000 Gandaberunda watches.HMT also attracts buyers who want watches customised for them, featuring photographs of their loved ones on the dial.In fact, Union minister for heavy industries and steel HD Kumaraswamy, who has been quite vocal about strengthening HMT, sports a watch made by the company with his mother’s portrait on the dial.Quite ‘drip’ for Gen ZTurns out, HMT’s most devoted fans aren’t just nostalgic boomers — there’s Gen Z too. For 26-year-old Jo Barretto from Koramangala, HMT became a serious collecting obsession earlier this year after discovering that the brand was winding down. What began with four watches has grown into a collection of around 20 HMTs in just eight months. The collection includes four Gandaberunda watches, as well as Kohinoor, Sangam, HMT Plus and Roman models.Jo bought the Gandaberundas for her mother and brother, and herself. “I love HMT because of their different shapes and dials that you don’t find elsewhere. And the collector groups and thrill of waiting for restocks have inspired me to collect one watch from every HMT collection,” says Jo.Yashas KS, 30, a Bharatanatyam dancer and teacher from Nagarbhavi, grew up seeing his grandfather and father wear HMT watches. He bought his first HMT about a decade ago, inspired by his grandfather’s timepiece, and now owns two, including one from the Chinar collection. “It’s shared nostalgia. Everyone has seen an HMT watch worn by their grandfather, uncle or father, and social media has made people more aware of how beautiful these vintage watches are,” he says.Affordable nostalgiaHMT’s resurgence is also helped by something increasingly rare in the watch market — affordability. A couple who visited the store with their son on Independence Day sums up the appeal simply: “It’s so affordable. Just Rs 2,500-2,900 apiece. Even those of us from the middle class can easily afford these watches.”HMT says the renewed popularity of its watches is not necessarily about maximising profits. “It is not just about sales. The important thing is how people are patronising HMT and supporting the brand,” says Kumar.“The story of HMT is truly fascinating. We are not working with a profit motive; even today, our watches are available at almost rock-bottom prices. Perhaps we may look at profitability at some point, but that is not our current objective,” he adds. The company’s most expensive watch at present is the Stellar, priced at Rs 18,000.A second comingNow, the challenge before a PSU, which wound down six of its seven watchmaking divisions, is not about convincing people to buy its watches, but being able to make enough pieces for them.The surge in demand has put pressure on the company to match production with the expectations of a new generation of buyers — and with collectors who are willing to wait months for a particular model. “While we already produce around a lakh watches annually, we are definitely increasing it. I already have plans to increase the production multifold. We are also coming out with newer models and will continue to expand the collection,” Kumar says.For a brand that once seemed destined to become a relic of India’s industrial past, HMT watches are finding a curious second life. They are being rediscovered not merely as timekeepers, but as pieces of regional identity, family memory, vintage design and affordable Indian craftsmanship.And for those still scouring for a piece, the wait is worth the while.
