New Delhi: Fifty-six-year-old Jonaki Sarkar walked into Banga Bhavan on Delhi’s Hailey Road craving mishti doi in the traditional bhaad, only to be told that only rajbhog, rosogolla and nolen gur ice cream were available. “We’re moving out by this weekend, so we aren’t stocking up on dessert anymore,” the manager explained.For the past 15 years, Kolkata’s iconic Bijoli Grill has run the Banga Bhavan canteen, turning it into a beloved outpost of Bengali cuisine in the capital. That chapter comes to an end on July 5, when the caterer will vacate the premises, making way for a Delhi-based Bengali catering company, Aristocrat, which, too, has a formidable reputation and will be on trial at its first proper public outlet in the city.An initiative of Tapan Barik Group, Bijoli Grill first arrived at the state bhavan in 2011, reportedly at the intervention of then chief minister Mamata Banerjee. Initially meant for guests staying there, the canteen was eventually opened to the public, gaining popularity with both the probasi Bengali community and food lovers.Though the change is being seen as an outcome of a BJP govt taking over in Bengal, Aristocrat owners say they have gone through a rigorous tendering process –- with a much higher bid -– and stringent technical evaluation.At first glance, little seemed different at Bijoli Grill this weekend. All tables were occupied as diners tucked into all-time favourites like fish fry, fish roll and chicken kabiraji with fish and mutton thalis decked with fulko (puffed-up) luchi and basanti pulao coming out of the kitchen. Outside, people waited patiently for their turn. “The rush is always greater during weekend,” said the cashier.Yet, one corner of the dining hall quietly betrayed the impending departure. Stacks of boxed rosogolla and rajbhog were being sold at discounted prices. “We are moving out by tomorrow and nothing should go waste,” the manager was telling curious customers.Among them was a 47-year-old engineer, Pinaki Ghosh, who had just finished a meal of luchi and kosha mangsho with aloo. “I have been coming here for the past one decade, some days with my family, some days just alone as my office is nearby,” he said. He hoped the new caterer would retain the restaurant’s signature dishes, particularly fish kabiraji.Bijoli Grill may be moving out of Banga Bhavan but its feet will remain firmly planted in the capital. It is planning to open a new outlet at Connaught Place, months after it expanded its Chittaranjan Park operation from a takeaway to a restaurant. It has outlets at Dilli Haat, near INA Market, and Gurgaon. However, many of its 50 employees at the canteen will have to be relocated with some moving to Kolkata, where it originated in 1947.Aristocrat, which is set to take over operations by July 16, says it hopes to preserve the canteen’s legacy while adding its own touch. “We are researching to put together a menu exclusive for Banga Bhavan, curating all the signature dishes of our company,” said founder Madan Kumar Bhanja, who started the catering business in 1985, quickly building up a reputation for quality and efficiency.It’s catering business is quite popular and it already runs a canteen at the Kali Mandir guesthouse in CR Park, besides a sweet shop in the area.Bhanja said, “We aren’t going to bring in any changes in the Bengali cuisine on offer. Rather, we’ll add our signature dishes like gondhoraj Ilish (kaffir lime hilsa) and mutton dak bungalow, and place more focus on sweets such as shanti bhog and nolen gurer malai roll.”Bhanja is miffed over the controversy generated by the change. He says they won the bid fair and square, and are investing a lot in the new venture. The space is set for a makeover with the interiors showcasing Bengal’s art and culture. The kitchen, too, is being overhauled. He also plans to introduce a suggestion book. “I want to take into account the customer’s feedback on how we can improve our service,” he said.Bengali cuisine is finally having its moment in Delhi it seems. Oh! Calcutta and 6 Ballygunge Place are going strong though The Tangra Project couldn’t stay afloat. A popular joint, City of Joy at Alaknanda, had folded up during Covid-19. There are many others which offer food of uneven quality. Some competition can only rev things up and throw up delectable surprises.
